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[xMordecaix88]

sup guys, i just bought my first 240 3months ago, its a 93 KA24de manual. I wanted one since i was 15, 4 years later i finally got one. Its in pretty good shape but its been a pain since i got it. its my daily driver and i'm on a low budget. It feels like i'm towing a house, just looking for some advice/help with my 2fizzle.
:cowboyup:

[linluv84]

Your first step should be catch-up on basic maintenance. A thorough tunup will give you a clean slate to start working with. Plugs (ngk!), wires, cap/rotor, air filter, engine flush (atf works well), belts/hoses, and clean electrical connectors...

[linluv84]

Also, if it really feels that sluggish, make sure you are running on all 4 cylinders...

[Dgramps01]

hey welcome to NV240...glad you are liking your 240...welcome to the problems LOL. So why a 240?

[DC S14]

Originally posted by xMordecaix88@Apr 10 2007, 07:49 PM
i'm on a low budget.
everyone who drives a 240 is... :rolleyes:

















p.s.

welcome...

[mello88]

Originally posted by xMordecaix88@Apr 10 2007, 07:49 PM
sup guys, i just bought my first 240 3months ago, its a 93 KA24de manual. I wanted one since i was 15, 4 years later i finally got one. Its in pretty good shape but its been a pain since i got it. its my daily driver and i'm on a low budget. It feels like i'm towing a house, just looking for some advice/help with my 2fizzle.
:cowboyup:
Welcome to the site.

Go look up how to pull the codes from the computer, do it and write them down, then go look them up to see what they mean and how to solve them. You might have a code 34 for "bad knock sensor or knock sensor wiring", which retards ignition timing which gives you shitty performance.

Good luck

[xMordecaix88]

i just love how 240s look, kinda like a fat ass catfish from the front. anyways so far ive changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotar, air filter, the clutch and tranny, slave and master cylinder, fuel filter, and my fuel pump. oh and i cleaned the iacv, but its still running sluggish, I'll try to figure out how to run the codes and i'll put them up.



my 240s not putting out its being a prude.
maybe i need to take her out to dinner first?

[VegasKAT]

Originally posted by xMordecaix88@Apr 11 2007, 08:45 AM
i just love how 240s look, kinda like a fat ass catfish from the front. anyways so far ive changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotar, air filter, the clutch and tranny, slave and master cylinder, fuel filter, and my fuel pump. oh and i cleaned the iacv, but its still running sluggish, I'll try to figure out how to run the codes and i'll put them up.



my 240s not putting out its being a prude.
maybe i need to take her out to dinner first?
SWAP!

[VegasAssMac]

Welcome

[xMordecaix88]

ran my codes and got 14 and 34. I don't care about the speed sensor but how hard would it be to change my knock sensor or how expensive?

[mello88]

Yeah I was expecting that, lol.

The speed sensor error I wouldn't even worry about, I doubt that it will cause any problems.. But you might look it up to be sure.

Code 34 is the knock sensor OR the KS harness. On the S13 KA24DE the code 34 comes up usually due to either a bad/melted/destroyed knock sensor OR a short that occurs in the harness that runs on top of the fuel rail, inside that hard plastic shell. You need either replace your KS and/or pull your harness out and repair any shorts there.

http://www.socal240sx.org/articles.html
http://nv240sx.org/forum/index.php?showtop...t=0&#entry37817 (http://nv240sx.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=4569&st=0&#entry37817)

[xMordecaix88]

thanks for the help mello, i hella suck with electrical stuff, like a hooker on a friday night....thats alot, but i'm broke so how would i check for a short in the harness? again thanks for the help man

[mello88]

Hey bud, you need to buy or borrow a Digital Multimeter (DMM). This tool lets you check the resistance of wires. So you basically unhook the knock sensor harness, plug the DMM into that end, unhook the ECU harness plug and plug the DMM into that end (on the ECU harness plug). Then you set the DMM to measure resistance... You should see very very very low resistance since it technically should be a solid wire with no breaks in it. If it has a short somewhere, you'll see a measurable resistance that will bounce around, also if you move the wire around you'll see the resistance change (this shouldn't happen). Radio Shack sells cheap ass DMMs, and so does Home Depot and Frys of course. Like under $25...

GL and put another post if you need more help dude.

[drift_or_die]

if it is the harness be ready to replace it cause im going through that shit right now... the shelding on the wire is cracking and i have no real way to fix it!!! welcome and good luck! :mario:

[xMordecaix88]

I need Mad Mike from pimp my ride!! I haven't had time to check my knock sensor, but i'm pretty sure its my wiring thats messed up. the shell thats around it is all broken and barely on thurr. I bought a DMM, checked my battery, and when i measured resistence it bounced around, this means i have a bad ground right? Sometimes my car does weird things like a headlight will pop up for no reason, or one of my lights will turn off outta nowhere. It looks like the previous owner messed with the fuse box and battery cables. I don't even know where to begin to try and fix this..

[mello88]

Originally posted by You
I bought a DMM, checked my battery, and when i measured resistence it bounced around, this means i have a bad ground right?

Do you literally mean you checked the resistance of your battery? I meant to unhook both ends of the harness, the ECU plug on one end and the KS subharness connector on the other end. Then measure the resistance of the wire from ECU pin #27 on the ECU plug to the KS subharness connector. It should have a solid, very low resistance. If not then you may have a short.

Just take one thing at a time, you might have some shorts somewhere else in your chassis wiring. You have a DMM now so no more excuses besides laziness lol