Poll On Manifolds

[drftfan]

I am just wondering if anyone has any particular exhaust manifold they prefer. Also how hard is it to install a new one with Taka water and oil lines?
To start I currently have the OBX manifold. Looking at the ss auto chrome or LS automotive.
B)

[msaskin]

Originally posted by drftfan@Jul 4 2004, 06:46 PM
I am just wondering if anyone has any particular exhaust manifold they prefer. Also how hard is it to install a new one with Taka water and oil lines?
To start I currently have the OBX manifold. Looking at the ss auto chrome or LS automotive.
B)
the taka oil lines (or any form of lines with AN fittings) make it WAY easier to work with. that said, you know how my manifold fits :)

~matt

[drftfan]

Thanks Matt. Anyone else???

[msaskin]

Originally posted by drftfan@Jul 5 2004, 12:15 PM
Thanks Matt. Anyone else???
There aren't too many of us with SR's, and even then, I think you and I are the only ones with new manifolds ;)

~matt

[drftfan]

Matt,
I am just ready to dump the not fitting correctly OBX. I am almost willing to put back in the stock manifold to have a little more reliability. Do you have any recomendations to remove stuck, broken turbo studs?

[msaskin]

Originally posted by drftfan@Jul 5 2004, 02:44 PM
Matt,
I am just ready to dump the not fitting correctly OBX. I am almost willing to put back in the stock manifold to have a little more reliability. Do you have any recomendations to remove stuck, broken turbo studs?
Which studs are you referring to?

~matt

[drftfan]

There are two actually, But they are both the same. The actual studs that hold the turbo to the manifold and the outlet to the o2 housing.

[dc.240sx]

money wise, ure best bet would be the new ssautochrome ones they jus put out , which are a lil bit thicker then the previous onesnew ssautochrome (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7908997695&category=33632) for a bottom mount t25, those are prolly the best, and all the other ones you see are basically all the same ie, ls automotive, etc. till you get to the high end ones like the hks which go for around 900.which is way too much imo.people complain about these cracking, but ive heard of even the hks ones cracking, best thing about these is that they are real cheap, and if it cracks , you can always just weld it back together or get a whole new one. :cool:

[msaskin]

Originally posted by drftfan@Jul 5 2004, 03:33 PM
There are two actually, But they are both the same. The actual studs that hold the turbo to the manifold and the outlet to the o2 housing.
What's the problem did you break the studs off half-into the stock manifold and turbo?

If so, you're probably best off taking it to a machine shop to have it drill pressed out and re-tapped. They're hardened steel, and a real bitch to try and use an EZ-out on. Or, you can buy an ez-out set, put the manifold (or turbo) into a vice and go at it.

Also, all of the stainless manifolds (be it the $200 autochrome or the $1000 full-race) are prone to cracking for a few reasons.
1) thermal stress
2) the lack of a flex-section on the downpipe.

~matt

[drftfan]

Matt,
You know how it is a two sided stud? The part that is broken off on both is the threaded part only. There is about 1/4 inch of smooth steel still left. I am wondering if there is not a way to grip it with something and just twist it out. You can call my cell at 496-5913
Thanks.

[vegas_touge]

Originally posted by drftfan@Jul 4 2004, 06:46 PM
I am just wondering if anyone has any particular exhaust manifold they prefer. Also how hard is it to install a new one with Taka water and oil lines?
To start I currently have the OBX manifold. Looking at the ss auto chrome or LS automotive.
B)
if you got the cash i suggest a HPI Tubular manifold...made for racing...its a bit pricey (like 800 bux i think) but worth EVERY penny

[msaskin]

Originally posted by drftfan@Jul 5 2004, 06:57 PM
Matt,
You know how it is a two sided stud? The part that is broken off on both is the threaded part only. There is about 1/4 inch of smooth steel still left. I am wondering if there is not a way to grip it with something and just twist it out. You can call my cell at 496-5913
Thanks.
Odds are since it sheared off when you removed it that the threads on the stud and the threads on the hole have pressure/rust welded together over time.

I'd say an easy out may work, but you're going to have to have a vice to secure the object in question while you drill at it. I'd try a titanium bit to start a pilot hole, then a regular ez-out (since they're meant for removing this kind of stuff).

It's one of those things that you'll just kind of have to approach once you get the manifold/turbo assembly off and decide what you want to do.

~matt

[drftfan]

Like I said there is almost a 1/4 inch of stud left. I was told I could probably grab it with some vice grips and slowly turn it out. And to make matters worse I found a second is broken off as well....
Do you think this will work?

[msaskin]

Originally posted by drftfan@Jul 6 2004, 06:43 PM
Like I said there is almost a 1/4 inch of stud left. I was told I could probably grab it with some vice grips and slowly turn it out. And to make matters worse I found a second is broken off as well....
Do you think this will work?
It's worth a try. My concern is the pressure-welding effect, but I would say take some PB blaster and spray it down every now and then for a day ahead of time, then go at it. Best case, it pulls the studs right out. Worst case, machine shop time :)

~matt

[drftfan]

Matt,

So no it did not work on the exhaust manifold. I put the vice grips as tight as they would go. It may of moved a fraction, but I just ended up taking off material on the outside of the stud. I will get it done at some point.